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見招拆招——餐廳批量製作水煮肉片

发表日期:2008-06-15 点击数: 投票数: 相关餐厅:
拍摄地点:四川 新都 摄影器材: [相机] 索尼






見招拆招——餐廳批量製作水煮肉片
作為川菜的精典名菜之一,水煮肉片令許多“好吃嘴”心動不已。川廚之中精通水煮肉片者大有人在,但能夠批量製作且成功者並不多見。這是因為批量製作水煮肉片與單份製作的難度有著本|的區別。批量製作水煮肉片不但易造成肉|綿韌、渾湯糊嘴、乾辣燥舌、香味不爽、鮮味不足,且容易產生肉|不滑嫩、出菜費時費工等問題。多年以來,筆者對批量製作水煮肉片頗有研究,成菜久煮不綿,在四川省成都市當地頗有名氣。為與更多的餐飲業同仁切磋技藝,促進交流,下面筆者就將這些問題的解決之道公佈於眾,相信大家看了之後定能做出成功的水煮肉片來。
第一招:解決肉|綿韌、口感不滑嫩
原因:①取肉部位不對。 ②未對肉片進行初步處理。 ③所選澱粉不對。
方法:①因水煮肉片講求肉|細嫩滑爽,所以應盡量選取|地細嫩的里脊肉,次選才是豬腿肉。 ②應將肉片進行初步處理。方法如下:
A.將豬里脊肉切成厚約0.15厘米左右的大薄片,加入姜、蔥、鹽、料酒碼味約15分鐘,揀去姜、蔥不用,然後再碼入食粉和勻待用(因食粉品牌以及|量的差異,碼入食粉的比例應根據該食粉說明書所規定的比例來執行)。
B.兩小時後,用手輕輕一掐碼勻食粉的肉片,如果能將其掐穿,則證明肉片已碼製好,這時可將肉片用桶裝好,放入水活^下用活水沖泡約兩小時至食粉味完全消失,將其瀝乾水分備用。
C.把適量的雞蛋清(每500克里脊肉約需5個雞蛋清)放入沖水後的肉片和勻,再將紅薯澱粉(每500克里脊肉放入200克紅薯澱粉)放入肉片和勻待用。這裡應注意的是:傳統製作水煮肉片不是採用紅薯澱粉,而這里之所以選用紅薯澱粉,是因為當肉片的纖維組織被食粉破壞之後,紅薯澱粉能均勻且緊緊地裹在肉片上,使其不但嫩滑有味、入口化渣,而且克服了製作傳統水煮肉片很難掌握火候的問題,在製作過程中能真正達到久煮不綿的效果。紅薯澱粉的用量不宜過多,檢驗標準為:當和勻紅蔥澱粉之後,肉片上裹有一層薄芡且略帶透明的感覺,看上去比炒肉片所碼的芡多一半。
第二招:解決渾湯糊嘴
原因:①將碼勻澱粉的肉片直接放入湯鹵中汆制,由於澱粉脫落而造成渾湯糊嘴。 ②所放雞精|量低劣,且在熬製湯鹵時火力過猛。 ③底料中所放郫縣豆瓣|量低劣且用量過多。
方法:①淨鍋加清水燒沸,將碼勻紅薯澱粉的肉片用筷子逐片放入其中汆熟後撈出,用清水泡涼待用。應注意的是:以平常炒鍋為例,每次入鍋汆水的分量以500克左右為宜,每次汆熟之後應另換清水,燒沸之後再將肉片進行汆制,否則易造成煳鍋,影響肉片風味;汆製過程中火力不能過大,見水稍沸即可,否則易形成沸鍋。待製作水煮肉片的湯滷製作好後,直接將其放進湯鹵中汆一下即撈出盛於盆中,這樣就不會造成湯鹵渾湯的現象。 ②應選用優|雞精,且在起鍋前加入。 ③炒製底料時應選用優|豆瓣,且用量不宜過多,只要有醇厚之味即可。
第三招:解決費時費工
原因:①由於在批量製作水煮肉片時使用的郫縣豆瓣、薑蒜等調料相對比較多,所以如果現炒現制會影響出菜時間。 ②批量製作時,肉片的使用量相對會有所增加,現制現汆也會增加汆制時間,從而延緩出菜時間。
方法:①應在閒時將製作水煮肉片的調料炒製成底料,批量製作時將適量的底料放入骨頭湯中熬出味便形成湯鹵。這樣在批量製作水煮肉片時便可節省炒製調料的時間。 ②按前述方法將肉片進行初步處理待用,在批量製作水片時按需要將其放入湯鹵中汆一下即可撈出盛於|有小菜的盆中,這樣不但節省了肉片汆水的時間,而且效果頗佳。
第四招:解決乾辣燥舌,並且辣椒面容易附在肉片上進而粘在口腔內,形成乾辣的導火繩。 ②由於鹽味不足,易造成乾辣燥舌。
方法:①棄辣椒面不用,將老油放入淨鍋中燒至七成熱,隨即依次放入乾辣椒、青花椒,見其色澤稍變立即起鍋,淋於汆熟並盛於盆中的肉片上即可。 ②製作水煮肉片時,鹽味千萬要放足(但不能過鹹),否則吃起來會有乾辣的感覺。
第五招:解決香味不足
原因:①花椒香味不足。 ②調料炒製火候未到。 ③淋於肉片上的辣椒火候未到。
方法:①傳統水煮肉片使用的是花椒面,雖然能達到麻的效果,但卻無花椒的香味。改為青花椒粒與乾辣椒相結合後不但能產生麻辣宜人的效果,而且其產生的清香味亦十分誘人。 ②在炒製調料(即底料)時,應將其炒香及將水分炒乾,才能使底料達到應有的效果。 ③將乾辣椒節放入燒沸的老油之後,見其色澤呈紅褐色時立即起鍋,淋於汆熟並盛於盆中的肉片上面。
第六招:解決油|不紅亮
原因:①炒製底料過火,將老油及底料炒黑,從而使製作出來的水煮肉片油|呈黑紅色。 ②淋於肉片上的干辣椒由於過火,使油|呈黑紅色。
方法:①在炒製底料時,見其油呈魚子狀、底料水分炒乾時便立即連鍋端離火口。 ②老油入鍋不能超過七成熱,且辣椒入油後不能炸黑。
第七招:解決鮮味不足
原因:①用清水熬製湯鹵,造成先天性鮮味不足。 ②所選豬肉時間放置過長。 ③所選雞精、味精|量不過關。 ④鹽味不足,造成鮮味不足。
方法:①應將豬棒子骨用清水熬至湯汁乳白、鮮香四溢,用來熬製成煮肉片的湯鹵。 ②應選用優|雞精、味精,才能保證水煮肉片鮮味十足且不影響口感。 ③應選用剛宰殺2~10小時且未經冷凍(可保鮮)的豬里脊肉,才能保證肉片的鮮美本味。 ④鹽味加足,否則不但易造成乾辣,而且會使水煮肉片的鮮味無法完美地體現出來。
大廚小貼士
炒製底料及老油的方法
原料:糍粑辣椒600克,剁碎郫縣豆瓣500克,香料(八角10克,桂皮5克,山奈4克,香葉5克,廣香5克,丁香5克,草果5克,香果10克),熟菜籽油5000克,姜、蒜顆各200克。
制法:①將香料用刀拍破待用。 ②菜籽油入鍋中燒至七成熱,用旺火將薑蒜顆炸乾水分後,將糍粑辣椒和郫縣豆瓣放入油中,用小火慢炒約半小時,炒至糍粑辣椒和郫縣豆瓣油潤發亮、油色澤紅亮並呈魚子泡時放入拍破的香料熬10分鐘。 ③將鍋端離火口燜一下,待其冷後,將油與渣分別盛裝,渣即為製作水煮肉片湯鹵的底料,而油則成為老油。
原因:①傳統方式製作水煮肉片,一般使用辣椒面來形成辣味,這不易達到火候。
Move it Chaizhao - bulk production Shuizhuroupian
Sichuan classic specializes as one of many Shuizhuroupian "delicious mouth" echocardiography不已. Sichuan chefs who are proficient in Shuizhuroupian many people, but to successful mass production and rare. This is because the bulk production Shuizhuroupian and the difficulty of a single production is essentially the difference. Shuizhuroupian not only easy to produce quantities of meat to help Ren, pistachio paste-up, dry hot dry tongue,不爽aroma, flavor inadequate, and easy to produce meat not Huanen, time-consuming for a dish workers, and other issues. Over the years, the author of the bulk production Shuizhuroupian quite research, long-cooking vegetables does not cotton, Chengdu in Sichuan Province known local quite. For more and play against my colleagues in the restaurant industry, promote exchange, and these issues will be below the author's solution is made public, I believe we will be able to read after the success of Shuizhuroupian to.
The first move: to help solve the tough meat, the taste is not Huanen
Reason: ① meat from wrong location. ② did not conduct a preliminary deal with the meat. ③ selected starch wrong.
Method: ① due to smooth and refine Shuizhuroupian emphasizes meat, so should try to select and refine the texture, Jirou, the election is Zhu Tuirou. ② meat should be a preliminary deal with. Are as follows:
A. Jirou into pig in the thickness of 0.15 cm around the large flakes, adding ginger, onions, salt, mirrin Code taste for about 15 minutes, soliciting to ginger and green onions do not have to, and then code absorbed into the fresh powder and Dai Yong (because Fresh powder brands and the difference in quality, fresh powder to the code should be based on the proportion of fresh powder statement by the provisions of the proportion of implementation).
B. Two hours later, a hand gently Qia Code fresh powder to absorb the meat, if able to wear their Qia, the code system has proved meat, and meat at this time could be better used in barrels, with running water under Shui Longtou Add to brew about two Fresh Fenwei hours to completely disappeared, its brown water reserve.
C. - The appropriate amount of eggs (about 500 Kerry Jirou five-egg) Add to flush after the meat and absorbed, and then sweet potato starch (Kerry Jirou Add to 500 per 200 grams of sweet potato starch) Add to meat and absorbed Dai Yong. It should be noted here is: Shuizhuroupian instead of the traditional production of sweet potato starch, and here was selected sweet potato starch, meat is because when the fibrous tissue damage after the powder was fresh, sweet potato starch to uniform and tightly wrapped in meat, It not only Nenhuayouwei, importers of Java, and overcome the production of traditional Shuizhuroupian difficult to grasp the problem of heat, in the production process can not really cook for the effects of asbestos. Sweet potato starch content should not be too much for the test: When and starch to absorb red onions, sliced meat wrapped in a thin layer of transparent Euryale ferox and the feeling slightly, the film looks than Chaorou Euryale ferox more than half of the code.
The second move: Solving the pistachio paste-up
Reason: ① code will be absorbed starch directly into the meat in brine-Cuan system, as a result of starch falling pistachio paste-up. ② Chicken by the release of poor quality, and the brine in Aozhi soup when excessive firepower. ③ compound by the end of Pixian County watercress release of poor quality and excessive consumption.
Method: ① net increase the pot of water Shaofei, the code will be absorbed sweet potato starch by the meat with chopsticks-Add to remove them after Cuan cooked with water foam cooler Dai Yong. It should be noted that: The usual cookware as an example, each Ru Guocuan the weight of water to about 500 grams suitable for each Cuan should be cooked after another for water, then after Shaofei meat to Cuan system, or easily cause Hu pot, the impact of meat flavor; Cuan system in the course of firepower can not be too large, see little water to boil, otherwise easily form boiling pot. Shuizhuroupian to be produced for the soup Lu Zhi, directly into their soup in the brine that is to remove Sheng Cuan in the basin, and this will not cause salt-pistachio soup phenomenon. ② should use good quality chicken essence, and in Qiguo accession. ③ Chaozhi expected to be chosen at the end of high-quality watercress, and the dosage should not be too much, as long as the flavor to mellow.
Tip 3: The solution for time-consuming
Reason: ① in volume production due to the use of the Shuizhuroupian Pixian County watercress, such as spices Jiangsuan relatively more, so if the system is now speculation will affect the cooking time. ② bulk production, the use of the relative meat will increase, the system is Cuan Cuan system will increase, thus delaying the time to dish.
Method: ① should Xianshi Shuizhuroupian will be produced at the end of the seasoning made from fried expected, the production volume will amount expected at the end of the bone soup Aochu Add to flavor soup is a brine. This produced in bulk can save time Shuizhuroupian Chaozhi seasoning time. ② by the aforementioned method of meat will conduct a preliminary deal with Dai Yong, the bulk water of films produced by the need to put it in soup brine to remove the Cuan Shing pad in the basin have side dishes, meat This will not only save time Cuan water , And quite good results.
Fourth strokes: Solving the dry hot dry tongue and attached to the pepper-easy meat on the stick in the mouth then, a dry spicy I. matchlock. ② due to lack of salt flavor and easy to create stem spicy dry tongue.
Method: ① disposable pepper do not have to face, the old oil into the net 70% of hot pot Shaozhi, immediately followed by Add to dry pepper, green pepper, are reflected in its color slightly changed immediately Qiguo, Lin Shing and cooked in Cuan in the basin On to the meat. ② production Shuizhuroupian, salt to taste 10 million-foot (but not Guoxian), it will dry up eating spicy feeling.
Fifth strokes: Solving the lack of flavor
Reason: ① pepper flavor inadequate. ② seasoning Chaozhi less heat. ③ leaching meat in the chili heat less.
Method: ① Shuizhuroupian using a traditional Chinese prickly ash face, although to achieve the effect of anesthesia, but no pepper aroma. Green replaced with chili pepper tablets combined not only can produce the effect of Mala pleasant, but its clear the smell is very tempting. ② in Chaozhi seasoning (that is, at the end of material), should be Chaoxiang and water will stem speculation, can be reached at the end of the expected results. ③ chili festival will Shaofei Add to the old oil, are reflected in its reddish-brown color was immediately Qiguo, and Lin Sheng in Cuan cooked meat in the basin of the above.
6 strokes: Solving the oil quality is not Hongliang
Reason: ① Chaozhi expected at the end of fire, will be expected at the end of the old oil and Chaohei so that the produced oil quality Shuizhuroupian a black red. ② leaching meat in the chili because of fire, so that a black oily red.
Method: ① in Chaozhi expected at the end, are reflected in its oil-was Yuzi, at the end of Moisture stem speculation when it immediately Lianguo Duan from the Burner. ② Ruguo old oil can not exceed 70% of heat and hot pepper oil and can not be fried.
7 strokes: Solving the lack of flavor
Reason: ① Aozhi soup with salt water, resulting in congenital lack of flavor. ② selected pork placed long time. Essence ③ selected, but the quality of monosodium glutamate clearance. ④ salt taste inadequate, resulting in lack of flavor.
Method: ① should stick pig bone broth with water Aozhi Rubai, Xianxiangsiyi, used to Aozhi into Zhurou-halogen tablets. ② should use good quality chicken essence, MSG, the flavor can guarantee Shuizhuroupian full, and without prejudice to taste. ③ should use freshly killed and 2 to 10 hours without refrigeration (preservation) of the pig, Jirou can we guarantee that the delicious meat of this flavor. ④ salt flavor and foot, otherwise not only easy to create stem spicy, but the flavor will not be able Shuizhuroupian perfectly reflected.
Chef Tips
Chaozhi at the end of the old oil materials and methods
Raw materials: Ciba pepper 600 grams, 500 grams Duosui Pixian County watercress, spices (1.80 10 grams, five grams cinnamon, kaempferol four grams, five grams Heung Yip, Kwong-five grams, five grams cloves, 5 grams grass fruit, incense Fruit 10 grams), cooked 5,000 grams of rapeseed oil, ginger, garlic stars of 200 grams.
- Law: ① will shoot spices with a knife broke Dai Yong. ② Ruguo in Shaozhi 70% of rapeseed oil heat, with 3.5 Wanghuo will Jiangsuan dry water bombing, after Ciba pepper and watercress Add to oil in Pixian County, Yong Xiaohuo slow speculation about a half hours, Chao Zhici DCB pepper and watercress You Run illuminated Pixian County, oil and color Hongliang was Yuzi Add to shoot foam at the break of spices boil for 10 minutes. ③ will be pot-Burner from the rapid, pending cold, oil and Jardine were dressed, Jardine is the production of brine Shuizhuroupian soup at the end of the expected, and oil has become the old oil.
Reason: ① Shuizhuroupian traditional production methods, the use of pepper-general to form Spicy, not easy to heat.
关键词: 水煮鱼片

作者:老爹

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